Fit the intakes with oversized valves… Up from 1 7/8″ to 2 1/16″. You will need to readjust your main jetting when done.

Also consider running a hole saw thru your muffler to remove the baffles and spreading the rear exhaust tip to allow a free’er flowing exhaust..

Also consider having the cylinder deck height reduced by milling the cylinder gasket surface or the bottom of the flange surface… How much? The measured amount from the piston TDC to the head gasket surface… That will raise compression and greatly improve the “squish” area… You’ll love the increase in power.

Yes you can. And you can retain the VL brake backing plate and brake shoes… You will need to cut the right side axle spacer a bit and use a mid-30’s rear axle… You’ll have a better rear hub that will last for decades of use.

#1 Use a skate board wheel on the lower chain run to keep the drive chain from dragging on the frame casting.

#2 Use a 1/1/2″ belt drive for a late 30’s Knucklehead… And trim 1/4″ from the belt width… Use aviation tin snips.

#3 You may need to open the frame slot for the trans lug a wee bit… Use a hand file.

#4 If you are retaining a tank shifter.. Take the steps out of the shift lever guide… Flip the ratchet shifter lever upside

down.. Make a custom shift link from 1/4″ rod with ball swivel ends.

*You can run up to a 26t trans sprocket, depending on what your engine can pull…

Other approaches to this upgrade will work… This one is pretty easy and requires only hand tools and a few bits from the hardware store… We’ll post pictures in a bit.

• You may want to add a stiffing plate under the trans/frame lug… That will allow support for the 5th mounting bolt, closest to the kicker side… This will eliminate the trans from eventually cracking from the kick starting forces.

Royal Enfield..